Los Angeles-based Triarchy launched its first fully recyclable denim collection.
The five-piece women’s collection, called “Cellsius: Designing with the Earth in Mind,” was produced under Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign guidelines, ensuring the garments consider circularity from production to the end of the product lifecycle.
Adam Taubenfligel, Triarchy co-founder and creative director, said having firm guidelines in place allows for better design.
“I like having those parameters to work within as I find that in the restricted space it allows you to focus,” he said. “I wanted to create pieces that you will never want to get rid of but one day, when you have to, you will be able to discard of them responsibly as well.”
His design approach for the collection began by hearing what every supplier was able to bring to the table and then imagining the collection from there. “The idea became to make pieces that are forever pieces. Trends go against the shared goal of responsibility,” he said.
The Cellsius collection spans relaxed jeans, a jacket, a sleeveless tunic dress, shorts and a vest—each designed with a vintage aesthetic. The collection, available now exclusively at Neiman Marcus stores and on Triarchy’s e-commerce website, retails for $198-$365.
Triarchy teamed with the Karachi, Pakistan-based denim manufacturer, AGI Denim, for the first time to develop collection. No synthetic fibers were used in the fabric. The 100 percent cellulosic denim used throughout the collection comprises 70 percent organic cotton, 9 percent Circulose, and 21 percent viscose from sustainably managed forests.
“The common goal for this project was bringing together a group of industry leaders to try and tackle end of life and recyclability in the denim space. AGI was able to take all the ingredients from all partners and create the final product that surpasses all our expectations,” Taubenfligel said.
The garments are sewn with Coats EcoCycle threads, which can be dissolved at the end of the lifecycle by immersing the garment at 100°C for 20 minutes. Biodegradable buttons made from lyocell fiber replace traditional metal and plastic trims.
The collection was finished using Spanish tech firm Jeanologia’s laser machines, and ozone bleach and stone-free enzymes from Kaiser, a sustainable laundry auxiliaries and colorants provider. AGI Denim exclusively used Refresh, its recycled water technology that eliminates freshwater use in the dyeing, finishing and washing stages.
“Creating a biodegradable garment and disassembling it in just a few steps is a radical innovation. We are grateful that our supply chain partners helped make this a reality,” said Ahmed Javed, AGI Denim executive director. “We hope this collaboration acts as a blueprint for scaling circular manufacturing as it creates a business model that can bring about collective action for better clothes.”
The collection builds on Triarchy’s efforts to source and design sustainably. Taubenfligel said pilot projects like Cellsius and collaborations with likeminded partners are essential steps to scale circular technologies and make them more affordable.
“The more brands that adopt these new technologies, the more affordable everything will become. The domino effect starts here but everyone else has to work to keep these denim dominos of change falling,” he said.